The Scented Salamander

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Friday, April 28, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: Trouble by Boucheron



Ladies, be forewarned here: if you ever decide to visit beautiful Scotland, and opt to wear Trouble by Boucheron, you may provoke not only some "trouble" (the French word) amongst the menfolk there -- that is, a gentle, almost shy turmoil of the senses, of an understated, sexual nature -- you may downright get yourself into trouble (the English word) and be confused with the sort of woman you do not wish to be identified with (at least, this is what I am politely assuming). What delicate visions of femininity did Trouble by Boucheron evoke to Scottish testers? "Corsets, closed velvet curtains and leave the cheque on the table." "Slut."

Thus we learn, ahem, of the, perhaps, lower level of tolerance in Scotland for, shall we say, "sensual" perfumes (among certain Scots, "sluttish" perfumes, presumably). Actually, does anyone know of any "sluttish" perfumes -- that is, ones that sex workers think are good for their trade?Also, if you are from Scotland and you are reading this, please consider sharing with us your personal opinion of Trouble and of women travellers who wear it while traipsing about your moors.

You could say that Boucheron brought it on themselves; the advertisement for Trouble is highly suggestive; the hissing serpent there is used as a phallic symbol, the model's half-open mouth is undeniably suggestive, and their choice of a deep, red garnet for the bottle, you could hardly call it innocent. It can indeed remind many people of the color of red velvet curtains in a 19th century bordello frequented by Toulouse-Lautrec, of the sluttish red you see Belle wearing in Gone with the Wind when Captain Butler visits her, of Scarlett's later appearance in a dark red velvet gown that makes her look as if she had just come back fom singing in a saloon. More recently, we think of Satine in Moulin Rouge. But it's only really a reference to a precious ruby stone, a very apt reference for a jeweler. If you thought about those other associations, that means you need to go jewelry-shopping more.

Trouble is a sensual, sweet, and soft perfume, bordering on being a skin scent, diversely classified as a vanilla oriental, a fruity chypre, or a fresh oriental. The latter for me is the best characterization for it. The main charm of this perfume,
I would say, lies in a contrast between a clear, transparent citron note and a warm, sensual vanillic base, with jasmine sambac adding its softness, richness, and sweetness to the concoction. The lemony note instead of bidding adieu after the first few seconds or minute, persists, lingers on, and lightens up the scent. The orange blossom note that belongs to the scent range of jasmine sambac reinforces a subtle, transparent hesperidic accord. For those who love jasmine sambac, like I do, it is a real treat. Some people describe the scent of jasminum sambac as situated somewhere between orange blossom and honeysuckle; it is a deliciously sweet, fragrant, and fresh scent.This contrast creates the impression of a perfume that is both creamy and watery at the same time -- opalescent, if you will.

I enjoy this particular quality very much, it adds a touch of originality to the perfume. Trouble smells rich and opulent, this being the mark of many luxury perfumes, but allows a simple, delicate fresh accord to emerge, like the distant echo of one's youth peaking through a more sensual veil. Perhaps it wants to suggest the innocence of Eve before she bit into the apple, perhaps the perfume wants to rather say that Eve was never sinful, whispering instead in your ear that in all women there is a part of innocence and a part of experience.

The top notes are citron and digitalis or floxglove, middle note is jasmine sambac absolute, base notes are precious wood, vanilla amber, and blue cedar.

Sources: Osmoz, The Scotsman, November 27, 2004.

Photo is from imagesdeparfum.com





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